Fabbrica
Tim Manning
Tuscany – Pienza, Val d'Orcia DOC
Tim Manning’s wines have long been admired not only for their purity and precision, but also just a little bit of daring. A native of England, Tim has for over two decades made his own way–and some incredible wines–in Italy, deeply cognizant of the region’s history and yet unafraid to make his own choices (particularly regarding stem inclusion) in the name of Tuscany’s future. A devoted student of the school of Sangiovese, his wines are neo- classical in the best sense: indebted to their place, expressive yet in no way obvious, and unencumbered without ever feeling aloof.
Fabbrica Pienza is a relatively new winery, built on an old estate once owned by a family Newton, originally foreign to this quiet part of Italy but later enmeshed in the history of Orcia (and to whom Fabbrica has dedicated their wines). Here one can feel Sangiovese’s range: red-fruit, dusty earth, and persistent tannin, but with elegance and lift always at the fore. This, Tim notes, is what is innate to the noble grape of Tuscany, but too often concealed by excess extraction, sulfur, and oak.
Cigliano di Sopra comprises eight hectares and a dozen plots with every possible exposure, all cooled by winds blowing from the sea. The cellar is located below a building on the property dating to the 14th century. In few places have I seen such a combination of passion for the future of their estate and clear winemaking ambition. These include parcel-by-parcel whole-berry fermentations, sulfur additions only at bottling, and the use of massale selections from top producers (and dear friends) in the zone for replanting.
Red-berried, bright, and notably structured due to the presence of stems (from 30-100% depending on the site), there is both an unmatched freshness and an unmistakable presence across the lineup. These features belie the youthfulness of this winemaking duo and the novel history of the domaine. One shouldn’t be fooled, however: Matteo and Maddalena have put in immense effort and forethought into their work, working with some of the greatest producers in Chianti Classico (Fontodi, Isole e Olena) and beyond (Evening Land, Domaine de la Cote). A visit to the small cellar, tasting from barrel near the tiny library of wines charting their progress, manages to conjure grand visions of what is surely to come.
Tim in the Fabbrica cellars, June 2023