Edi Keber
Biodynamic Farming
Collio
Winegrowing and winemaking, even in the best of times and most well-known areas, is far from easy. Constantly subject to the whims of “the market,” of styles and trends, and to the pressure on the entire world created an infinite flow of nondescript industrial wine product, it is no surprise that even great producers find themselves wondering whether their efforts will be recognized, much less given their actual due. Indeed, many producers in Europe–including those in historic and top-quality zones–have succumbed to these economic forces (eg: the rise of the “Super Tuscan,” the barrique-ification of Barolo in the latter half of the 20th century, and the concerning goings-on around Bordeaux). Most often, the net effect of these pressures is a defacement of the hard work of individual families, and an obscuring of the terroir that underlies their work and should always shine through in a wine bottle.
It is thus a deep pleasure to be able to introduce the work of the Keber family. Located in Cormons, the winegrowing work of the family spans not only generations but nations. That is, while the family farm has stayed in place, the borders of their farm have shifted over generations, such that Kristian and Veronika–born Italians–are the children of Slovenian and Italian parents, with their great-grandfather Pepi from the same Slovenian town but born under the flag of the Austrians. Possible confusion is rampant, as the family’s vines, like many others, are contiguous yet cross the borders between Italy’s famous Collio and Slovenia’s Brda regions even today.
Here what remains steadfast is a singular commitment to the family’s vineyards and terroir.. With the region’s famous ponca soils (a sandstone marl rich in minerals but able to be crumbled by hand) and, a comparatively cooler climate buoyed by winds coming from the northern alps moderating the warmth of the sea to the south, the greatest wines of the area feel like wines from nowhere else: chiselled, focused, and compelling white wines of notable texture and presence. In Cormons in the Zegla hills, it is the uber-native Friulano which predominates, alongside smaller portions of Ribolla Gialla and Malvasia Istriana in roughly equal parts. It is Friulano that provides the structure for the wine, and whose high concentration in the Collio blend gives it a consistent capacity to age into its tenth- and twentieth-years.
Beyond biodynamic farming and gentle winemaking (including fermentation and aging entirely in concrete), Veronika and Kristian demonstrate their devotion to their region in the clearest way possible: by producing just one wine of Collio (and of Brda), made in the historic style from the region’s native grapes, bottled in the Collio Collio bottle, which is both striking and purposefully lighter in weight. This dedication and focus produces a masterful white wine, among the greatest made in the region and in Italy, combining depth and purity, elegance and energy.
Available 2025:
● Edi Keber Collio Bianco 2022
