It takes quite a lot for a family domaine in Alsace, a region lauded but so inscrutable to most of the world’s wine lovers, to be known world-wide. Even more, to be known not just for the quality of their wines but the deep clarity of their ecological vision. There is no doubt that, alongside only a few others, Valentin Zusslin is one of these domaines.

Located in Orschwir near Colmar in the Haut-Rhin, the Zusslin family has painstakingly refined the farming and viticulture of Riesling, Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Auxerrois, Sylvaner, and more since 1691, over three and a half centuries. Jean-Paul and Marie, the 13th generation here, farm two opposing hills: the Bollenberg–dry but hugely complex ecosystem with notable presence of limestone; and Grand Cru Pfingstberg with its hardened sandstone, where the family only plants Riesling. Atop Pfingstberg is the 4ha monopole marl-sandstone Clos Liebenberg, perhaps the family’s crown jewel, at high elevation, cool climate, and notable biodiversity. Certified biodynamic farming for nearly 30 years is undertaken both to ensure precise, complex wines, but also to encourage biodiversity in what are undoubtedly strange times in the region.

Biodiversity is key here and an especial focus for the family in recent years as climate change has made Alsace, already a warm climate, into something much more difficult for making precise, classical wines. Birds, bees, and forests are encouraged and supported in amidst the vines in order to generate a healthier overall environment, lowering pest pressures and boosting the health of the grapes. Plowing is done by horse to lower soil compaction, and there is a distinct focus on preservation of native flora; Bollenberg is home to extremely rare and unique flowers, including the orchid Ophrys, the inspiration for Zusslin’s delicate red of Pinot Noir/Pinot Gris.