It’s been 15 years since Fabien Dauvissat took over from his father Jean, and he has re-shaped the future of his family’s domaine with remarkable deliberation and intensity. Based in Milly on Chablis’ left bank, Mssr Dauvissat was largely selling the fruit or selling bulk wine from the family’s 20+ hectares of vines–an entirely rational commercial decision with the unfortunate effect of concealing an incredible bounty of terroir.

Since Fabien assumed control of the estate in 2009, everything has changed. All chemical treatments ceased, and farming has converted to organics, now certified. Now, nearly two thirds of the 50+ parcels are being farmed with the influence of biodynamics (teas, 501 sprays), though certification is not in the immediate future. Many of the family’s holdings are in and around the Cote de Lechet, a particularly vine-diseased portion of Chablis, so vines have been pulled out and are lying fallow for 7-10 years to let the soils regenerate.