Two faces look in the same direction on the wines of Domaine Frederic Mabileau, signifying both a devotion to the family estate begun in the early 1980s (sadly, Frederic passed at an untimely age in a tractor accident) but also a certain steadfastness in moving forward, and in giving place to perhaps less exalted parts of the Loire. Remy–who returned to the family domaine in 2017–and his mother Nathalie are continuing the work of the family while forging new paths in the zone. Early pioneers of organic farming, biodynamic farming is thoroughly ensconced at the domaine, with the aim of creating thoughtful, expressive, elegant wines of Cabernet Franc and Chenin blanc from an increasing number of sites throughout the zone.

Undoubtedly though, Saint-Nicolas de Bourgueil is the domaine’s home. Across the river from Chinon on the right bank of the Loire, there is a higher concentration of sand here than in neighboring Bourgueil, but both share a similar mix of limestone and gravels from the river. Though the wines are borne from specific sites, including the original plot, “Les Rouilleres” planted on sandy gravels in 1983, there is an undoubted purity to the wines that showcases the various faces of Cabernet Franc and Chenin Blanc, devoid any additional artifice. From older vines and sites endowed with more clay, wines like Les Coutures add density but never lose clarity; they are refined but not suave, always with their feet on the ground.