Casavecchia alla Piazza
Gabriele Buondonno and Valeria Sodano
Tuscany – Chianti Classico DOCG
The only thing that quite matches the rugged, austere beauty of this high-elevation, cool part of Castellina in Chianti–one of the coldest parts of the Chianti Classico zone–is the grace and heart of the family that owns it. Gabriele Buondonno and Valeria Sodano have been rooted in this land since they bought this property 35 years ago; but as professors of agriculture they are both grounded and compelled by the earth that sustains their family. Upon meeting, there is little doubt that their love for this place is reflected in the vibrancy and precision of the wines they produce on this small yet famous estate.
Gabriele Buondonno, Castellina in Chianti, June 2023
Casavecchia alla Piazza has a special history: owned by none other than Michaelangelo Buonarotti in the 16th century, the small estate was treasured for its Trebbiano vines, barrels being sent for gifts in Rome as well as personal consumption during the construction of St Peter’s and the painting of the Sistine Chapel. But while there is a resonant human history, the abiding sense upon visiting Gabriele is agricultural, even pastoral: thickets of forest, goats grazing (for his daughter Marta’s cheeses), and dots of Sangiovese vineyards, many north facing, retaining acidity and sleekness for the wines throughout their long growing season.
Farming 12 hectares organically from the beginning and with advice from his friend Giovanna Morganti, Gabriele’s wines reverberate with energy even while they express the depth and structure that speaks of this northernmost sector of Castellina. Brought into the outdoor fermentation area in October, the wines are fermented spontaneously, vinified without temperature control, and gently managed before aging in a range of old barrels and cement. One special old plot of archaic Sangiovese clones, slowly creeping up trees in the ancient way, is vinified and aged separately in two clay jars, christened lèmme lèmme (or, very slowly). These wines are a triumph of elegance and substance, of place and humanity’s place within it.
Gabriele and Valeria, Castellina in Chianti, June 2023